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London Fashion Week coming to Oxford Street

A host of retailers including Topshop, Selfridges and John Lewis are set to host a series
of in-store fashion events during next month’s London Fashion Week as part of a three-year campaign to bring LFW to consumers.

The Oxford Street Fashion Showcase will take place from September 12-19 and will run in conjunction with the British Fashion Council and the New West End Company. Retailers including Mango, Oasis, House of Fraser, River Island, Primark, Pandora, Gap and French Connection are also taking part and all retailers will be offering industry-style seminars.

The ‘style seminars’ will cover topics such as buying and merchandising, education and digital innovation, as well as social media and will be presented in an interactive way with a leading editor or in a QA style. Speakers among the line-up include designer Jasmine Guinness and TV personalities Laura Jackson and Becca Dudley.

Caroline Rush, CEO British Fashion Council, said: “Over this September’s London Fashion Week we aim to celebrate our thriving fashion industry city-wide by partnering with the New West End Company on the Oxford Street Fashion Showcase for the second year running.

“The campaign will offer shoppers the chance to experience unique in-store events and offers that will emphasise London’s reputation as the global fashion capital.”

To mark the second year of the partnership, Oxford Street will be decorated with 75 giant fashion flags, depicting the best of British design, and retailers will be presenting capsule collections of their new season styles.

The fashion showcase will take place for a third and final time in September 2015.

Article source: http://www.fashionunited.co.uk/fashion-news/design/london-fashion-week-coming-to-oxford-street-2014081822060

Prêt à exporter: New foreign labels hit the high street

And while we may be seeing something of a resurgence in the emphasis on the British manufacturing and textile trade, many of our most treasured stores come courtesy of other countries: Swedish-born HM, for example, or Spanish-originated Zara.

This month, a new wave of international retailers land on UK shores, all hoping to make a mark on the British fashion industry. New retail spaces and the ever-growing online marketplace are attractive prospects for international names all hoping to grow their brand in one of the leading markets in the world.

The Fifth Label

Flash back 15 years and the most famous Australian fashion export was the Ugg boot. But now an increasing number of Antipodean labels are finding a place in the UK market. The Fifth Label is the latest one to land on UK shores. The brand is part of the retail group Australian Fashion Labels, which is the mastermind behind fellow Southern Hemisphere retailers including Finders Keepers.

The Fifth, as it is more commonly known, is a trend-led brand that focuses on creating wearable clothing at budget-friendly prices. Fast turnaround is key and the brand releases a new collection of 100 looks every month. The Fifth made its debut this month exclusively online with asos.com.

 

Stradivarius

Inditex, the Spanish answer to the UK’s Arcadia retail group, has a roster of impressive brands under its wing and this season brings another of its popular retailers to Britain with the introduction of Stradivarius.

Think of it as the younger sister of Zara. The brand carries the same trend-led, quality-fashion ethos but with a younger, more dynamic approach. First established in 1994, it’s not exactly a new name; if you haven’t come across it in Spain, you might well have seen it elsewhere as the brand has more than 800 stores in 57 countries and counting.

The website is already enabled to allow UK shoppers to buy online, but this month the first UK store will launch at Westfield Stratford.

Free People

Free People is an American export, from the same company that established Urban Outfitters. The brand was founded in Philadelphia during the 1970s as a one-off bohemian clothing shop. After a decade or so of only being sold wholesale into department stores and boutiques, the brand was expanded and now has nearly 100 stand-alone shops across the US and Canada in addition to thousands of stockists. Very much staying true to its roots, the clothing is characterised by a bohemian aesthetic. Floaty skirts and vintage-style accessories make up the eclectic look and feel of the brand. UK shoppers can already get a fix online, as well as at a limited-edition retail space in Selfridges. For London Fashion Week, there will be a new pop-up store that will showcase the best of the brand alongside its debut footwear collection, which launches this week.

Article source: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/prt--exporter-new-foreign-labels-hit-the-high-street-9674946.html

How High Street fashion finally learned to love the OVER 50s

  • Shop windows are boasting elegant clothes for grown-ups, rather than styles for youthful fashion victims 
  • Major campaign shots are featuring older models such as Lorriane Kelly, 50, or Yasmin Le Bon, 49 
  • The High Street is steadily being reclaimed by the 50-plus women it abandoned years ago
  • Over-50s women spend £2.7 billion on clothes, accounting for 41% of sales

By
Gemma Champ

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A quiet revolution is taking place on the High Street. As you walk past shop windows, you may spot it: sleeves on dresses, flattering fits that are looser on the waist, and campaign shots that feature greying models.

Elegant clothes for grown-ups, rather than styles for youthful fashion victims.

And look around at who’s actually carrying bags, or shopping in giggling packs with friends — it’s not teenagers. They’re either buying online, or counting their pennies.

Yamsin le Bon, 49, is the face of Winser London

Yamsin le Bon, 49, is the face of Winser London

The High Street is steadily being reclaimed by the 50-plus women it abandoned years ago.

And no wonder: figures just this month revealed these women now spend £2.7 billion on clothes — accounting for 41 per cent of sales — with a staggering 90 per cent of British retailers seeing their fastest growth from this age group.

Suddenly, shops are pulling out all the stops for a slice of the Grey Pound. For they’ve finally realised the over-50 woman — more likely to walk in, run her fingers over fabrics, and try on in dressing rooms, as opposed to buying blindly online before returning items (a huge hassle for retailers) — is the most desirable customer on the High Street.

For stores that win her heart, the rewards are considerable. Bonmarché, aimed at the over-50s, has seen profits up 66 per cent in a year and even Marks Spencer is starting to reap the benefits of its Leading Ladies campaign which featured Annie Lennox, 59, Emma Thompson, 55, and Doreen Lawrence, 61, with clothing sales returning to growth for the first time in three years.

Winser London’s ‘face’ Yasmin Le Bon, who is fast approaching 50, is also a prime example of a new breed of mature woman.

‘Women over 75 are now shopping as frequently as those in their teens and 20s were in the Sixties,’ says the University of Kent’s Professor Julia Twigg, author of Fashion And Age. ‘Now, the lives of those in their 60s are not immensely different from those in their 40s.

‘It’s a difficult ask for the High Street. They’ve got to promote clothes that don’t have a label that says: “This is a frumpy dress for an older woman”, and yet cut in a way that flatters older figures.

‘The over-50s are not a funny little niche to be pandered to, but a market every bit as stylish, active and alert as their daughters — and with more disposable income.’

Jaeger is a case in point: in its new campaign, former fashion photographer Tessa Codrington, 70, looks directly at the camera, every bit as confident as her supermodel daughter Jacquetta Wheeler, beside her.

The message is unequivocal: these are clothes that flatter older women, but are still fashion-forward enough to be desirable to her thirtysomething daughter.

In fact, it seems the trick is to make this explicit enough to bring customers in, yet subtle enough to avoid offending said customers by telling them they’re ‘old’.

Like much of the fashion industry — from MS to Whistles and Next — Jaeger chased the glamour of youth and abandoned its core customer in the Noughties. ‘We tried to go too young, too fashionable — and that was a disaster,’ admits CEO Colin Henry. ‘We had to rethink.’

Lorraine Kelly, 50, modelling for JD Williams

Lorraine Kelly, 50, modelling for JD Williams

The result is an autumn/winter collection that uses forgiving cuts and will work across generations, with a return to natural fabrics — more breathable, which can be useful for menopausal women.

A simple grey jacket, £220, for example, is eminently wearable, but has details, such as raglan sleeves, that make it modern.

But, while quality is often cited as an overriding concern for mature women, Professor Twigg also says much of the trick to luring back the over-50s is a good, old-fashioned bargain. While the babyboomer generation may be richer than their parents, they have also experienced 15 years of fast fashion, so are less willing to blow their pensions on one or two good items.

And the section of the industry that responded first to that need was the catalogue and mail- order scene.

The USP of brands such as JD Williams (which has signed up Lorraine Kelly as a model) Isme and Gray Osbourn has long been offering a huge range of clothes carefully designed to fit the more mature figure, without losing out on the fun factor — providing an alternative to High Streets that, until recently, has made older women feel so unwelcome.

They have helped spark a reassessment of just what the older woman wants to wear, exactly how it should fit, and how she shops.

At JD Williams, contemporary fashions adapted for a more mature figure are key. What that means is more forgiving waists on well- tailored skirts and trousers, perhaps with hidden elastic or drawstring for flexibility, to account for the general redistribution of fat from hips to waist. Other popular features include secret support on jeans, lower bust darts to lift breasts, shaping panels on dresses, sleeves, longer hemlines, and slimming style details, such as bold patterns and ruching on the waist.

Fabrics, too, are often less flimsy, with heavier cotton jersey, quilting, or knits that skim the body, rather than cling. Vibrant colours that flatter the skin and subtle neutrals are more popular than harsh black, which highlights wrinkles.

‘For our customers, looking good is a daily deal you make with yourself,’ says Rachael Thornton of upmarket Gray Osbourn. ‘You can become “invisible”, and fall prey to bland, shapeless clothing, or you can rock what you’ve got.’

And this successful formula, which started among mail-order catalogues, now spans the High Street. Stores that have become huge successes, such as Whistles, John Lewis’s Kin, Damsel in a Dress, Jigsaw and even HM’s spin-off Cos are packed with stylish, older women seeking out contemporary fashion, safe in the knowledge that the styles will fit and suit them.

Marks  Spencer is starting to reap the benefits of its Leading Ladies campaign, which featured Baroness Doreen Lawrence, 61 (right)

Marks Spencer is starting to reap the benefits of its Leading Ladies campaign, which featured Baroness Doreen Lawrence, 61 (right)

Emma Thompson, 55, and Annie Lennox, 59, starred in Marks Spencer’s Leading Ladies campaign

Perhaps one of the most telling examples of this sea change is jeans, once a youth staple. Now, they are available in styles — and with stretch and panelling — that flatter more mature figures.

The options are seemingly endless: Isme alone has everything from super-soft jeggings in its South line for £18, to high-waisted bootcut jeans by Not Your Daughter’s Jeans for £150, while shape-boosting denim is available everywhere from MS in classic black for £35, toWizard Jeans in chic purple for £125.

This effect is not confined to clothing, either: Peter Taylor, managing director at Hotter shoes, has noted a distinct change in the requirements of his customers in recent years — they are now taking style tips from their daughters, unlike the more formal pre-war generation, who took their dress sense from their mothers.

Over 50s are getting younger in their attitude and lifestyles (posed by model)

Over 50s are getting younger in their attitude and lifestyles (posed by model)

‘One of the best-selling shoes we have is a canvas-print, which has stretch panels in the side, and can be worn by anyone from an 18-year-old to an 80-year-old,’ he says.

‘Our customers loved our comfort, but wanted more style.’

Eighty per cent of over-50s have problems with their legs and feet, according to Taylor, though most simply don’t recognise that their feet are changing shape.

‘How we tackle that is the design of our shoes,’ he says. ‘we’ve done a lot of research in what is the right fit for people — things like the toebox area, that’s where there can be a lot of change and you need more room. Other considerations are adjustability, with Velcro,for example.’

Other traditionally comfortable shoe brands are also upping the glam factor in search of the grey pound: MS’s sturdy Footglove range, for example, has had something of a makeover, with shoes every bit as stylish as the main range — but hidden benefits, including wider shapes, softer materials and Insolia Flex soft innersoles.

‘The generation now hitting their 50s are getting even younger in their attitude and lifestyles,’ says Taylor. ‘They’re highly active and highly social. Their footwear wardrobe is widening because they want a particular product for a particular aspect of their life, whether that’s adventure holidays, lunch with friends, fancy dinners, or fitness.’

Professor Twigg agrees: ‘A lot of the work on old age tends to focus on problematic things; difficulties — all very important, but it misses the fact that later years, for many people, aren’t necessarily problematic, but do contain all sorts of good things such as choices about clothing, leisure, those sort of things.’

Finally, it seems, the High Street has caught up.

 


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Article source: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2727403/How-High-Street-fashion-finally-learned-love-OVER-50s.html

Pittsburgh Street Style: Lawrenceville

First in an occasional series documenting the fashions of Pittsburgh’s people and places.

■■■

Fashion is what is featured in storefront windows or paraded down a catwalk. Style is the personality people bring to their clothes in day-to-day life.

A snapshot of style seen on the streets of Lawrenceville. First in an occasional series documenting the fashions of Pittsburgh’s people and places. (Video by Ye Zhu; 6/11/2014)

Look closely and you’ll notice that each of Pittsburgh’s neighborhoods has its own personality when it comes to personal style — from athletic to ornate to chic and sophisticated, and in some cases a melange of many things. The Steel City is no Big Apple with corridors of high-fashion shops crammed side by side. But it doesn’t need all that. Pittsburgh’s style scenes tend to be more modest and exist in pockets, each with its own unique look and vibe that are eager to be shared.

Lawrenceville is one such style hub. In recent years, it has evolved into a stretch of savvy boutiques such as Jupe and Jules Pittsburgh, where the city’s hip and trendy tend to flock. Shoppers here also seem to have a keen awareness of where their clothes come from, with stores like Mid-Atlantic Mercantile and Glitter Grit bridal boutique catering to those who care about shopping domestically made apparel and eco-friendly looks.

Spend a few hours wandering around Lawrenceville and you’ll spot some of these urban trendsetters. Here’s a snapshot of a few who passed through the neighborhood on a recent Sunday afternoon. 

– Sara Bauknecht, Post-Gazette style editor

Style sights from around Lawrenceville

Anna Finley, 29, of Polish Hill, pictured above, draws most of her sartorial inspiration from the Pinterest boards of her 26-year-old sister, Clara Finley of Point Breeze. Clara considers her fashion sense as a vintage, ragtag look peppered with preppy pieces.

Jill Kushner, 23, of Shadyside mixes textures for a refreshing take on the popular print pairings of seasons past. The muted tones in her lace shorts and cheetah print top keep the look from becoming too overwhelming and give her the freedom to experiment with colorful accessories, such as her red rubber riding boots and deep turquoise frames.

 

Anya Weitzman, founder of the local jewelry company Mod Evil Studio, creates a mixed-media accessories look that appears to be inspired by a key piece, in this case, her ASOS satchel. The set of black rings and black cuff, which she says is her go-to piece, are her own creations. The gold horseshoe bracelet is from a designer in St. Croix. Ms. Weitzman is 24 and lives in Garfield.

 

For Luke Cypher, it’s all about simplicity. Headed into a day of work at Piccolo Forno, the 27-year-old from McKees Rocks combines thrifted threads with basics from HM. Some of his favorite places for secondhand styles in the city: the Red White and Blue thrift store and Avalon Exchange.

 

Nicole Boss, 26, of Lawrenceville turns to Pageboy Salon Boutique for “new” things to wear and a fresh cut for her hair. “They’ve already picked the good stuff,” she says, referencing the struggle of sorting through endless racks of vintage clothing. She draws fashion inspiration from her friends, with whom she frequently trades pieces at clothing swaps. For Ms. Boss, style is all about “learning what you feel comfortable in.” Her go-to piece: the perfect pair of black pants.

 

Rebecca Lipski’s rain boots are a quirky alternative to a plain pair. The rubber bows and raised heels provide an added feminine touch to the durable shoes for Ms. Lipski, 22, of Highland Park.

 

“There’s so much abundance in the city,” says Justin Lubecki, 29, of Bloomfield. He describes his style as “found” and says he stumbles upon the items that build his wardrobe. His vintage Pirates hat pairs surprisingly well with the hues of his plaid shirt and khaki pants. The Mason jar in which he totes his morning coffee adds even more character.

 

Alison Verplaetse, 28, of Cleveland combines Madewell basics with items she has thrifted over the years. She says she does most of her shopping online and sticks to a simple strategy — search for the sales!

Article source: http://www.post-gazette.com/life/fashion/2014/08/11/Pittsburgh-Street-Style-Lawrenceville/stories/201408110009

‘There is a lot of street fashion here’

Designer Talk

Mumbai-based designer Dionne Claudette Alves was recently in the Bangalore to showcase her collection at ‘Bangalore Fashion Week’.
 It was her first time in the City and she was excited to be here. She took some time off her hectic schedule to talk to ‘Metrolife’ about her love affair with fashion.  “This is actually a funny story. When I was in sixth standard, I didn’t like math and in order to distract myself from the subject, I started to draw and sketch. I started with human bodies and I automatically started putting clothes on them. After that, I never stopped drawing. I still have my drawings from the sixth standard. I just knew immediately that I have to become a designer. After that, I pursued my dream and now I am 24. I think I am probably the youngest here,” says the artist. 

She says fashion for her is anything you can carry off. “It’s not about good fashion but about how you carry it off; you should set your own trend. You don’t wear clothes because you see others wearing them. Even if something is not a trend, you should think it is  and wear it yourself.” 

The collection she showcased at the fashion week was a unique one based on the popular book and TV series, ‘Game of Thrones’. “I had done my previous collection based on the World Wars and it was all about women empowerment.

 From there, I was inspired by the newer and the blue, the tail and whites that one can see in ‘Game of Thrones’. However, it is my take on the modern world if that world really did exist.” She added that she can visualise the characters of her show in modern days dressed in her clothes.

 “Even though there were just three men, they complemented each of the outfits,” she says. She adds, “I am a big fan of the TV show and I love their fashion and the characters. My favourite character is Calise.”  She says the fashion in Bangalore is different from what it is back home. “There is a lot of street fashion here. People are more louder in Mumbai while it is more traditional here I have noticed. Fashion here is very different as compared to Bombay. Like I said, it is more traditional here. Unfortunately I don’t design much Indian designs.” 

She already has a collection of gowns coming out in December. “I want my own set of exhibitions and shows,” she sums up.

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Article source: http://www.deccanherald.com/content/425454/039there-lot-street-fashion-here039.html

Topshop, Selfridges, John Lewis and more to bring London Fashion Week to …

Article source: http://www.thedrum.com/news/2014/08/14/topshop-selfridges-john-lewis-and-more-bring-london-fashion-week-oxford-street

Street fashion: Rocker style at ICON fashion show




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Camden street style #23: All-weather fashion, Hipster hostility, and all that …

Published: 13 August, 2014

IN our weekly online column, ALINA POLIANSKAYA looks at who’s wearing what in Camden Town. 

Juliet Ayisi, who is a student at Brighton University, is “being a tourist for the day” in Camden Town. The 22-year-old, from Bromley, is wearing a chunky monochrome cardigan from New Look, a little pink vest top from Topshop, some black leggings from New Look and a pair of boots from Kurt Geiger. She finished off the look with a shiny black Fiorelli handbag and some large shades from ASOS. Juliet said she had dressed for the temperamental weather, that was sunny one minute and raining the next. She said the most important thing when it comes to picking an outfit is feeling confident, as “if you feel good, you look good”.

Shayla Naznin, from Bangladesh, is on holiday visiting friends in town. The 28-year-old, who works for an airline, is dressed in a colourful short-sleeved shirt made of fabric that was made in Bangladesh, along with a long blue skirt and a pair of little purple pumps from Primark. She has accessorised with gold hoop earrings, a matching bangle, and a quilted black bag, all from Dubai, along with a pair of large shades.

Stefania Sanz, 32, from Spain, came over to England for a wedding and is now enjoying a holiday. The primary school teacher is wearing a denim jacket from Stradivarius over a white t-shirt from HM and some blue and white printed trousers from Zara. She has opted for strappy white sandals from a small shoe shop in Valencia, a white bag from Parfois and some round sunglasses with leopard-print flicks from an Italian brand called RetroSuperFuture. She said she is quite an eclectic dresser, and her outfit just depends on her mood that morning.

Lawrence Mota, 26, who is originally from Congo but living in Covent Garden, is sporting a quirky, colourful look. The business and law student at Goldsmiths University sees will.i.am as his style icon and is wearing a blue blazer from Zara, a t-shirt with Micky Mouse and Donald Duck prints, some dark jeans from HM, with a flashy belt from Camden Market, and some Nike trainers. The hat, which finishes off the look, is from All Saints and the black-rimmed glasses are from a small shop in Camden Town. He said: “I am a musician, I play guitar, especially blues and jazz music, so I try to come out with a different style every day.”

Janne Huggins, who studies hospitality and tourism management and works part-time, is wearing a pencil skirt from Miss Selfridge along with a brown belt and a t-shirt from Forever 21, a long cardigan from Zara and some plimsolls from Office. She has added a leopard-print bag from Paul’s Boutique and is prepared for the rain with a “cute” panda umbrella that she bought from a street vendor. The 29-year-old, from Holloway, is out for an after-work stroll, and is trying to keep herself “from shopping too much”.

Emmy “Noctemy” Lunden, 18, stands out from the crowd with her rather extravagant gothic style. The Swedish student, who is on holiday in London, is wearing enormous chunky boots from Demonia, a leather jacket from Red Queen’s Black Legion, a black top from Heavy Red and shiny black leggings from Queen of Darkness. She has added dark sunglasses by Dahlia Deranged, a bag from Restyle and a custom-made bone necklace, earrings and a horned headband from Etsy. “I always thought differently about style, I never liked the whole pop and hipster thing,” she said. “I love my style, I have been building it up since I was a child.” She said that her look can take up to two-and-a-half hours to put together when she goes all-out, adding lashes, contact lenses and a full face of gothic make-up.

Article source: http://www.camdennewjournal.com/news/2014/aug/camden-street-style-23-all-weather-fashion-hipster-hostility-and-all-jazz

Street Style: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Photo: Nabile Quenum

Copenhagen’s not just about clean-lined furniture and inventive cuisine—it’s got style to spare too. We dispatched photographer Nabile Quenum to shoot the city’s most sharply-dressed men and women at its biannual Fashion Week.

Article source: http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2014/08/street-style-copenhagen-fashion-week.html

How street-style photography got real

In 2013, legendary style editor Suzy Menkes published an essay titled “The circus of fashion” in the New York Times. In it, she nailed the backlash against the crowds who hang around outside various fashion weeks, suggesting that they – the stars of street style – were eclipsing what was happening on the catwalks. “We were once described as ‘black crows’,” she wrote, “but today, the people outside fashion shows are more like peacocks than crows.”

Of course, this wasn’t the first time someone had suggested street style had reached critical mass. A few months later, fashion photographer Garance Doré would tell Elle: “What we call street style isn’t actually street style at all, it’s fashion-week style.” It was clear that if street style were to survive, it would need to evolve.

And evolve it has. Welcome to Peep Style, a subversive approach to street style, driven by a hunger for a more candid, authentic approach, which focuses on capturing real people in real clothes and – this is key – who aren’t necessarily posing.

Instagram.com/davidluraschi
Instagram.com/davidluraschi

Pioneering the genre is French-American fashion photographer, David Luraschi (@DavidLuraschi),. Dubbed by insiders the “sartorialist of sadness”, he avoids posed shots, choosing instead to shoot his subjects (all genders, all ages) from behind, achieving a Martin Parr level of realism, and post the results on Instagram.

“I work within the fashion world, and I understand that street style is embedded within it,” he says. “But to me, style is something else – it might be a colour, or it might be an attitude or a dialogue. I have nothing against it [street style], but there’s something about someone posing that removes the naturalness.”

Luraschi is one of several photographers increasingly noted for their realistic. LA-based phototgrapher Alkistis Tsitouri has been practising street-style photography since 2008. She actively avoids the “peacocks” and agrees that street style has become an epidemic: “If I go to New York during fashion week, I don’t want to fight with other photographers for one click of some ‘street style superstar’.”

At the far end of the spectrum is London-based photographer Alex Sturrock (@alexsturrock), who guns for the most everyday people he can find: “What people choose to wear says a lot about them, but it’s not a complete story,” he says. “When I do street portraiture, someone’s face is probably the most important thing and clothes can even be a real distraction.” His subjects “are not trying to solicit the camera’s attention or create a contrived image”.

Girl with ferret
Girl with ferret. Photograph: Alex Sturrock

Street-style photography became popular in the 70s, pioneered by New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, but it wasn’t until the mid noughties that it really gained recognition. Since then, its explosion has been fairly swift, with hugely influential blogs such as The Sartorialist launching in 2005 and photographers such as Yvan Rodic, Tommy Ton and Philip Oh being commissioned to photograph street style for the glossies.

For a long time, editorial photography and street-style photography happily co-existed. Then a faultline appeared. For Brent Luvaas, an American academic who specialises in the connection between street style and anthropology – the problem began “when they started photographing people outside shows instead of real people on the street”.

Luvaas runs Urban Fieldnotes, a meta street-style blog about the way we photograph street style, as part of an ongoing project about its evolution. “Street style used to be about documenting real fashion – it was meant to be alternative to magazine fashion. But then it started to require shooting the kinds of people the readers of fashion publications were interested in, and that turned out to be more the insiders than everyday people.”

Michelle Verpuggi

Stylist and fashion writer Michelle Verpuggi wearing a Photoshop dress and visor and a Jane Norman bag at Paris Collections: Men in June, 2014. Photograph: Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images

For Luvaas, the cannibalism of street style began five years ago: “The great thing about street-style blogs is that you have an archive of fashion for the past 10 years that isn’t solely editorial based. However, what is apparent is that since 2009, if you search for street style, all that comes up is fashion week.”

Now, street style has arguably peaked. Part of the backlash stems from the fact that (to borrow from Menkes) the “peacocks” now outweigh the “black crows” and that some fashion week attendees resent being fair game to photographers when they are trying to do their job; a sort of “passive consent”. Luraschi blames selfies for rendering street style redundant, and making us more wary of it: “That problem of narcissism has always existed – but now we are overwhelmed with the amount of output online. It sort of makes you not like people.”

Katherine Ormerod, senior fashion news and features editor at Grazia, agrees that street style has had an “immeasurable” impact on the way her peers dress: “You can’t just wear a black jacket and jeans – you want to look visually engaging for the reader.” Although she doesn’t feel resentful: “We all still dress like ourselves, just with a little more vim.”

Instagram.com/davidluraschi
Instagram.com/davidluraschi

As a result, it’s become impossible to define street style in the historical sense because arguably, it no longer exists. At fashion weeks at least, people dress to be photographed: “If you go to certain streets in New York’s SoHo, there is a chance that you will be photographed – you see bloggers hang out together in gangs of four or five,” says Luvaas. For many fashion types, if you’re not photographed then you don’t exist.

What photographers such as Luraschi and Sturrock are producing may not seem to be fashion-focused, but they are capturing the essence of what street style used to be.

Some would argue that the backlash stems from our desire to react against fashion, an attitude reflected by the normcore trend: in order to stand out, you have to blend in: “It is extremely hard to protect your unique look in street-style culture,” agrees Ormerod. “The only way you can do that is by failing to pique the photographers’ interest.” So maybe at the next round of fashion weeks, the black crows will find themselves the subject of the photographer’s lens, whether they like it or not.

Article source: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/aug/12/-sp-street-style-photography-real-peacocks-fashion